标题: Build a Better Burger [打印本页] 作者: choi 时间: 4-7-2016 09:14 标题: Build a Better Burger Nina Sovich, Medium-Rare Perfection. Stop using the grill, top chefs say, and cook in a skillet; don’t spend on wagyu beef, try the ice-cube trick. Wall Street Journal, Apr 6, 2016. http://www.wsj.com/articles/make-the-best-burger-1459873196
Excerpt in the window of print: People like hamburgers so much because of the way proteinsand sugars react when heated [Maillard reaction].
Quote:
"most chefs counsel using a griddle or a cast iron skillet. The consistent heat across the burger * * * Graham Elliot, Chicago-based restaurant owner and chef, who keeps his burgers ½ inch thick and puts an ice cube in the middle to keep them moist. 'That crunchy caramelized outside [from Mayllard reaction] is the good part.'
"Mr Elliot says he would chose a pan or griddle over a grill any day
"Grilling is one of the most difficult ways to cook * * * Heat is inconsistent, flare-ups occur and the caramelization is difficult.
" 'The grill has to be clean and hot, and I mean hot,' says Mr [Mark] Lapico[, the executive chef at Jean-Georges restaurant in New York], anywhere between 400 and 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Many gas-fired grills have trouble reaching this temperature, or they lose too much heat once the cover is opened. Unless you have a high-end gas grill, a charcoal grill is better for burgers, he says.
Note:
(a) The title of this posting -- Build a Better Burger is cut and pasted from the teaser/lede of front-page top banner of WSJ of the same day.
(b) Chuck is also known as chuck steak https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chuck_steak
("The typical chuck steak is a rectangular cut, about 1" thick and containing parts of the shoulder bones; This cut is usually grilled or broiled(
(ii) etymology:
However, both the Oxforddictionaries.com and Webster's Third New International Dictionary Unabridged (1961) says chuck came from "chock."
(c) "Chuck from the animal's shoulder is good for burgers because the steer works that part of its body. The more an animal uses a muscle the tastier it is. Mr [Alex] Tishman adds brisket and trimming from hanger steak, but makes sure that 50% of the burger remains chuck."
(i) "The more an animal uses a muscle the tastier it is."