ブタ
ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/ブタ
The following paragraphs are excepted from section 2.3 ブタの飼育史: section 2.3.5 日本.
(a) This Wiki page says Japan had pigs (from archaeological evidence, for example), but "奈良時代に仏教が国教化したことによって、ブタの飼育も途絶 [= 杜絶] えてしまった。"
(i) translation: Because Buddhism was turned into state religion in Nara period, raising pigs was discontinued.
(ii) Nara Period
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nara_period
(710-794, when Nara was the capital except for 740-745; "The [layout of] capital at Nara was modeled after Chang'an, the capital city of Tang China. In many other ways, the Japanese upper classes patterned themselves after the Chinese, including adopting Chinese written characters (Japanese: kanji), fashion, and the religion of Buddhism"/ section 3 Cultural developments and the establishment of Buddhism)
(A) Nara was then (710-794) called 平城京 (pronounced "Heijō-kyō"), which should not be confused with 平安京 ("Heian-kyō"), the name of the new capital (794-1868 with an interruption in 1180) of present-day Kyoto. Japanese Wiki for Kyoto: "In the 11th century, the city was renamed Kyoto 京都."
(B) Between 740 and 745 (inclusive), Emperor Shōmu 聖武天皇 moved the capitals to three neighboring places, for reasons I can not find. See Kuni-kyō 恭仁京
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuni-kyō
(section 1 History)
(C) Fukuhara-kyō 福原京
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fukuhara-kyō
(in or near what is today Hyōgo Ward 兵庫区 in the city of Kobe 神戸市; TAIRA no Kiyomori 平 清盛 [1118 – 1181])
(b) Japanese Wiki: "中世に琉球王国に属した沖縄県や鹿児島県の奄美地方では、古来からブタの飼育や食用が行われており、沖縄料理は「豚に始まり豚に終わる」ともいわれる。"
translation: In Middle Ages, Okinawa (belonging to Ryukyu Kingdom [1429-1879]) and Amami Islands
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amami_Islands
(just north of Okinawa) of Kagoshima Prefecture raised and consumed pigs (since ancient times), Okinawan cuisine can be described as "starting and ending with pigs." * * *
(c) "長崎においても、鎖国中の唯一の外交窓口であることから、駐在する中国人の食用として豚が飼育されていた。卓袱料理にも取り入れられて、一部は日本人の食用としても供給され、司馬江漢がこれを食べた記録がある。多くの日本人にとっては忌み嫌われ、中国人の豚好きを揶揄した「楊貴妃は きれい [綺麗] な顔で 豚を食い」という川柳がある。
"明治維新以後肉食は一般化していくこととなるが、普及したのは牛鍋などにみられるように牛が圧倒的で、豚肉の需要はそれほど伸びなかった。豚の飼育は伸びていくものの、これは東京近郊の農家が肥料を得ることを目的としたものであり、食用ではなかった。しかし、大正元年(1912年)にコレラの流行が起きると、警視庁がコレラの流行を食い止めるために魚の生食を制限し、火を通すことが前提である肉食を奨励した。この際、上述のとおり豚が多く飼育されていた東京や関東圏において安価であった豚肉の使用が注目された。これによって、それまで牛肉が主であったカツレツが豚に置き換えられてトンカツが誕生するなど豚肉料理がこの時期に多く誕生し[8]、豚肉の需要が急増して、ブタも日本各地で再び飼われるようになった。特に関東大震災後に関東地方で養豚ブームとなり供給量が増え安価になった。
translation:
Nagasaki being the only window to the word during 鎖国, the Chinese posted there raised pigs as food. Pork was incorporated into 卓袱料理 and some [at least one Japanese blogged: '極少数の日本人'] Japanese took it up as food, too. It was recorded that Shiba Kōkan
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiba_Kōkan
ate it. Many Japanese abhorred the practice, teased Chinese savoring of pork and there was a ditty 川柳 [打油詩 in Taiwan], "楊貴妃, such a beauty, ate pork" [What does this mean? Some Japanese explain it is unbelievable, could not be the case. But some others ascribe the ditty to 司馬江漢, so it could not be bad.]
"After Meiji Restoration, eating meat became common. Yet it was beef that was prevalent, used in sukiyaki 鋤焼 [kind of like hot pot of Chinese] for example. The trend did not extend to pork. Farmers around Tokyo did raise pigs, but that was because they needed fertilizers; they did not eat it. Nonetheless in 1912 (the first year of Taishō period, cholera broke out, Metropolitan Police Department of Tokyo banned eating raw fish and promoted meat-consumption, as long as it was fully cooked [火を通す]. At the time, the government saw to it that the cheap, aforementioned pigs in or around Tokyo be put to use. So, cutlet--mainly beef up to that point--switched to pork, and tonkatsu 豚カツ was born and pork dishes rose. The need for pork increased sharply and around the nation, pigs were raised. Particularly after the [1923] Great Kantō earthquake, there was a boom in pig farming: higher supply lowered the price.
* tori-ireru 取り入れる 【とりいれる】 (v): "(2) to take in; to gather in; (3) to adopt; to incorporate; to accept; to introduce"
* Nagasaki 長崎市
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagasaki
(section 6.3 Local_specialities: Shippoku Cuisine [not explained])
(d) 卓袱料理 Shippoku Cuisine
ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/卓袱料理
(中国料理同様に、円卓を囲み、大皿に盛られた料理を各々が自由に取り分け食べるのが卓袱料理の基本形である)
summary: Originating in Nagakasi; 中国料理 and 洋食 (mainly the Holland cooking) mixed together, then was japanified; use round table 卓 [and large dishes, referring to both the utensil and food because many will eat from the dishes] typical of China rather than the "zen" 膳
ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E8%86%B3
used in Japanese Cuisine.
Jim Breen's online Japanese dictionary says its etymology is "originally" "zhuofu" in "Chinese"/Mandarin. I can not find the Chinese characters in modern Chinese language; older Chinese perhaps (because it was created only in the past several centuries, the Chinese words could not be ancient). |