臭豆腐在台湾

choi

威克, 观点：臭豆腐为何也能成为统独论战的中心？  BBC Chinese, Nov 30, 2017.
www.bbc.com/zhongwen/simp/42189636

Note:
(a) "王丹的贴文是说美国的《纽约时报》报导了台湾一家餐厅的臭豆腐 * * * 这引来了中国网民的批评说臭豆腐是 '中国美食' 不是 '台湾美食。' "
(i) "王丹网站 Wang Dan's Page
· November 20 at 6:33am ·
今日「紐約時報」，用半版篇幅介紹台灣美食「戴記臭豆腐」。
台灣美食，走上國際。其實，用軟實力讓國際社會看到台灣，是完全可以走得通的大路。"
https://www.facebook.com/%E7%8E% ... 759983026/timeline/
(ii) Chris Horton, 戴记独臭之家，台北的臭豆腐神殿. 纽约时报, Nov 21, 2017
https://cn.nytstyle.com/style/20171121/taiwan-stinky-tofu-taipei/

, which is translated from

Chris Horton, In Stinky Tofu Kitchen, The Vent Rises 3 Stories. New York Times, Nov 20, 2017, at page A5.
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/ ... ky-tofu-taipei.html
(A) NYT: founder and owner: "Wu Hsu Pi-ying" in English; "吴素萍（音）" (in the translation)
(B) It is easy to find out. Besides, It is clear to Taiwanese that The surname Wu is married name, derived from her husband and that her maiden name is Hsu.

鄭琇文, 落榜舉人的無心之舉，成就傳「臭」百年的知名小吃！上過國宴的臭豆腐料理——戴記獨臭之家. 文化銀行 Bank of Culture, undated (編碼：00074)
bankofculture.com/archives/3183
("臺灣的臭豆腐，據說是在1949年由一名湖南老兵帶來臺，與中國北方的臭豆腐並無太大差異，只是臺灣會搭配以白菜醃漬的泡菜，夾在中間來吃。  戴記老闆娘吳許碧瑛的父親是江蘇人，當年跟著國民政府來臺，把家鄉的臭豆腐也一塊兒帶來。小時候吳許碧瑛跟著父母賣自製的臭豆腐")

* 文化銀行Bank of Culture
https://m.facebook.com/tw.bankofculture/?__tn__=C-R
("文化銀行Bank of Culture. 18K likes. 台灣第一間文化銀行。 我們致力於文化保存與文化永續。讓「文化」不只是個名詞，而能成為一種生活方式")
(C) Back while I was in Taiwan, the only way to eat stinky toku was to fry it, always eaten with
(D) caption of an online photo: "The store's logo is stamped on every slab of tofu. Credit An Rong Xu for The New York Times"

I can not tell what the logo says, if anything.
(E) "One exception is the stinkiest tofu available at Dai's, aptly named stink paste 臭膏. Fermented at a low temperature over two years in a vegetable and medicinal herb-based brine, this tofu decomposes and attains a creamy texture and gray hue. If stench were spiciness, it would be a habanero-plus, making its presence felt long after swallowing."

habanero
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Habanero
(section 1 Name: The English spelling habañero is superfluous and wrong)

choi

(b) "中国知名的火锅连锁品牌到台北开店，相当受到台湾食客的欢迎，但是之前的知名烤鸭、鱼头料理到台湾开店却是铩羽而归。"
(i) 欒治誼 and 張春峰, 口味不合台灣! 大陸餐廳搶灘失敗. Taipei: 中華電視 (abbreviation: 華視), Mar 25, 2014
https://news.cts.com.tw/cts/general/201403/201403251396940.html
("大陸餐飲業來台展店，但幾年來，能撐得下去的少之又少，像小肥羊和譚魚頭等知名陸資餐廳，短短幾年都鎩羽而歸")

* But see 小肥羊
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/小肥羊
(涮羊肉連鎖店; 總部 中国内蒙古包头市; section 3 分店, section 3.1.3 台湾: "台北市松江路185号曾有一间小肥羊分店，但被董事长张钢指是 '山寨版，' 事后该店总经理黄庆宇向媒体出示一份合同澄清。该店现已停业")
(ii) BBC Chinese is MISTAKEN when talking about 烤鸭 in this context. Beijing's 便宜坊 (the only China-based Peking duck companies so far) opened a branch in Taiwan, at 高雄, in 2015 (in a partnership with a local company); it is still there. I can not find anything about its business there, despite tremendous efforts.

Hank媽 (screen name), 便宜坊燜爐烤鴨，600年歷史的北京烤鴨名店高雄飄香. 窩客島 Walkerland, Feb 7, 2016 [it should be Jan 7; she published the same in a lot of places, all of which except this one was dated Jan 7, 2016].
www.walkerland.com.tw/article/view/102999
("北京烤鴨分為掛爐烤鴨與燜爐烤鴨兩大流派，其中以燜爐烤鴨歷史較早，掛爐烤鴨強調的是皮脆，以全聚德為首。燜爐烤鴨強調的是肉嫩，以北京有600年歷史的便宜坊燜爐烤鴨為代表")
(iii)
(A) 彭馨儀, 全聚德想進台 老董：台鴨不夠肥. Taipei: TVBS, Dec 21, 2008.
https://news.tvbs.com.tw/china/190576
* 便宜坊 (in Kaohsiung) has used ducks raised in 屏东县.
* 全聚德 had a couple of promotions in Taiwan in the past decade -- limited offerings of its Peking Duck (limited in days and number of ducks). I do not know where its ducks was sourced.
* Taiwan has repeatedly refused 全聚德 to import raw, uncooked ducks from Beijing to Taiwan, for fear of bird flu. I am no expert in this disease. However, China and US have exported fowls (mostly chickens) to each other. I do not know whether China exports to US fowls raw or cooked (as in cans).
(B) JASON旅遊日記, 宋廚菜館（全聚德烤鴨）. 隨意窩Xuite日誌, Mar 10, 2008
https://blog.xuite.net/gaisu/blo ... 4%E9%B4%A8%EF%BC%89
("之前在新聞上就有聽過這家鼎鼎有名的烤鴨店，這間名叫宋廚的餐廳就是本來名叫全聚德的烤鴨店，因為名聲實在是太響了，連北京的全聚德總店都派人過來考察，聽說原本是要來要求台灣店家改名，不要用跟他們一模一樣的名字，因為北京全聚德有要來台灣開店的準備，哪知北京派來的考察師父吃了他們的烤鴨之後，立刻問老闆要不要加盟，可是台灣老闆很有骨氣的拒絕了北京全聚德的邀請，也很阿沙力的把店名改成以他姓為名宋廚")

* 宋廚菜館
https://zh-tw.facebook.com/pages ... %A8/161369607248151
* Many commentators in Taiwan mention 宋廚菜館 (located at Taipei) as 前 or 原  全聚德 at the same breath. I had not heard of it while in Taiwan.
(iv) 阿沙力?
(A) 請問一下阿沙力是什麼意思?Yahoo奇摩知識+, 2005.
https://tw.answers.yahoo.com/que ... 00012KK05629&p=阿沙力
* "ㄏㄏㄏㄏ"

ㄏ is a symbol in bopomofo 注音符號, pronounced "he" (pinyin). Here it means the same as "hoho" in PRC websites.
* 參考資料：me = 窩自己
(B) Victor Mair, Assari > ashali, a Japanese mimetic loanword in Taiwan. Language Log, University of Pennsylvania, June 19, 2017.
http://languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu/nll/?p=33333
* Please read the last paragraph first to get hold of the conclusion.
* Google lists this as the top return for the search:
"Under what circumstances would you prefer one of the following over the other two?
1. Get hold of
2. Get ahold of
3. Get a hold of
https://english.stackexchange.co ... ld-of-get-a-hold-of
* "this aSaLi stocking brand"

It is a 袜子 company based in Taiwan.
https://www.facebook.com/taiwanasali/
* The "assari" -- Japanese romanization does not have "l," only "r" -- is transliteration of Japanese hiragana あっさり, WHEREAS "ashali" is pinyin from PRC.
* "*VHM [initials of Victor Mair]:  This is a fairly common claim in Taiwan * * *"
* "My JC [Japanese-English] dictionary"
(iv) Supposed differences in 北京烤鴨 between Beijing version and Taiwanese version:

北京吃貨大本營 (a PRC Chinese's screen name), 最正宗的北京烤鴨居然在台灣？   每日頭條, May 13, 2016.
https://news.tvbs.com.tw/china/190576

* 每日頭條 deliberately conceals its identity, without "About Us" or "Contact," and uses traditional Chinese.  But netizens in Taiwan conclude it is based in China, not Taiwan.

choi

(c) "澳门的葡式蛋挞曾经 [在台湾] 风行一阵，随后很快没落"

葡式蛋挞
https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-cn/葡式蛋撻
("属于蛋挞 [egg tart] 的一种，焦黑的表面（是糖过度受热后的焦糖）为其特征")

(d) "在台湾有不少挂着 '温州大馄饨' 招牌的店家，但是样子和中国大陆的温州大馄饨天差地远，两岸三通之后，就曾经成了话题，有来自广西的女子嫁到了台湾，在台北开了一家专卖 '螺蛳粉' 的小店，听说最初有食客乍听之下以为是 '螺丝粉，' 误会以为是用外形像五金螺丝一般的面条制作的汤面。"
(i)
(A) I google 温州大馄饨 (in simplified Chinese) and found few returns, all of which are based in Taipei. I am clueless whether PRC Chinese call the dish by this name. Indeed many in the Web say 菜肉大馄饨 when I google 大馄饨.
(B) 溫州沒大餛飩!!!!!!!!!!! 那我在台灣吃的是?  天涯论坛, Dec 7, 2011.
(c) "澳门的葡式蛋挞曾经 [在台湾] 风行一阵，随后很快没落"

葡式蛋挞
https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-cn/葡式蛋撻
("属于蛋挞 [egg tart] 的一种，焦黑的表面（是糖过度受热后的焦糖）为其特征")

(d) "在台湾有不少挂着 '温州大馄饨' 招牌的店家，但是样子和中国大陆的温州大馄饨天差地远，两岸三通之后，就曾经成了话题，有来自广西的女子嫁到了台湾，在台北开了一家专卖 '螺蛳粉' 的小店，听说最初有食客乍听之下以为是 '螺丝粉，' 误会以为是用外形像五金螺丝一般的面条制作的汤面。"
(i)
(A) I google 温州大馄饨 (in simplified Chinese) and found few returns, all of which are based in Taipei. I am clueless whether PRC Chinese call the dish by this name. Indeed many in the Web say 菜肉大馄饨 when I google 大馄饨.
(B) 溫州沒大餛飩!!!!!!!!!!! 那我在台灣吃的是?  天涯论坛, Dec 7, 2011.
bbs.tianya.cn/post-333-152098-1.shtml
(C) I went to Taipei to attend college, for a lot of years (more than 4). I surreptitiously discovered an eatery (with few customers) run by male mainlanders 外省人 (so probably veterans; I did not ask them which province(s) they had been from), and had something I had never had before: about three huge things in a lot of sou -- likely to make it less expensive. It did not taste like Cantonese 馄饨 (I am Cantonese) or 饺子, not did it look like the photo in the Taiwanese store of the preceding link. (They looked like goldfish with big tails floating in the clear soup. I asked them about the name of the dish, and they might have said 菜肉大馄饨, but I am unsure. I went back many times, each time I being the only customer.
(ii) 螺蛳粉
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/螺蛳粉
(是广西柳州的风味小吃，由柳州特有的米粉，加上酸笋、木耳、花生、油炸腐竹、黄花菜、鲜嫩青菜等配料及适度的酸辣味和煮螺蛳的汤水调合而成; 正宗的螺蛳粉不放螺蛳肉，只是汤用螺蛳熬成)
(iii) 螺蛳: Taiwan does not use this term to describe snails.

(e) "源自于中国大陆的菜肴和小吃甚至零嘴，在台湾并不少见，水饺、葱油饼、锅贴、沙琪玛（萨其马）、麻花等等的食品早已进入台湾人的生活中，并不会因为是源自中国大陆而有所排斥"
(i) Well, until I read this article, I had thought 葱油饼 is indigenous food OF Taiwan.

葱油饼
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/蔥油餅
("在台灣做法為在大型鐵盤上淋點油，將或著蔥花與麵糰壓成的餅皮攤盤上煎成，然後再切成4塊、8塊或對半賣，也有揉麵時不加油，然後近乎用烙烤而成的做法")

In Taiwan I only saw what is described in the first part of the quotation.
(ii) 沙琪玛 sounds unusual and I thought it was cantonese having no idea it came from Manchuria, as zh.wikipediua.org says.
bbs.tianya.cn/post-333-152098-1.shtml
(C) I went to Taipei to attend college, for a lot of years (more than 4). I surreptitiously discovered an eatery (with few customers) run by male mainlanders 外省人 (so probably veterans; I did not ask them which province(s) they had been from), and had something I had never had before: about three huge things in a lot of sou -- likely to make it less expensive. It did not taste like Cantonese 馄饨 (I am Cantonese) or 饺子, not did it look like the photo in the Taiwanese store of the preceding link. (They looked like goldfish with big tails floating in the clear soup. I asked them about the name of the dish, and they might have said 菜肉大馄饨, but I am unsure. I went back many times, each time I being the only customer.
(ii) 螺蛳粉
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/螺蛳粉
(是广西柳州的风味小吃，由柳州特有的米粉，加上酸笋、木耳、花生、油炸腐竹、黄花菜、鲜嫩青菜等配料及适度的酸辣味和煮螺蛳的汤水调合而成; 正宗的螺蛳粉不放螺蛳肉，只是汤用螺蛳熬成)
(iii) 螺蛳: Taiwan does not use this term to describe snails.

(e) "源自于中国大陆的菜肴和小吃甚至零嘴，在台湾并不少见，水饺、葱油饼、锅贴、沙琪玛（萨其马）、麻花等等的食品早已进入台湾人的生活中，并不会因为是源自中国大陆而有所排斥"
(i) Well, until I read this article, I had thought 葱油饼 is indigenous food OF Taiwan.

葱油饼
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/蔥油餅
("在台灣做法為在大型鐵盤上淋點油，將或著蔥花與麵糰壓成的餅皮攤盤上煎成，然後再切成4塊、8塊或對半賣，也有揉麵時不加油，然後近乎用烙烤而成的做法")

In Taiwan I only saw what is described in the first part of the quotation.
(ii) 沙琪玛 sounds unusual and I thought it was cantonese having no idea it came from Manchuria, as zh.wikipediua.org says.