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Condé Nast Travel (magazine), December 2023 (cover: 'Asia') II

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发表于 8-31-2024 12:12:01 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |正序浏览 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 choi 于 9-1-2024 11:58 编辑

(1) Dan Q Dao, Hog Heaven; Vietnamese flavors are spicing up Houston's traditional barbecue scene. at page 46.
https://www.cntraveler.com/story ... rs-meet-texas-smoke

Note:
(a)
(i) The author is Vietnamese-American.
(ii) The magazine seems to allow access to a free online article a day. But this article does not rely on images, so I will present the text below.
(iii) Vietnamese-English dictionary:
* khói (n): "smole"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/khói
* mi (noun; etymology: "Teochew 麵/面 (min7, 'noodle') or Hokkien 麵/面 (, 'noodle'). Doublet of miến [Mandarin]. Compare Thai หมี่ (mìi), Malay mi, Indonesian mi"): "noodle"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/mì
   ^ I can attest to 麵's pronunciation in Taiwan as mi.


(b) " * * * Blood Bros. BBQ in an unassuming strip mall in the Southwest suburb of [City of] Bellaire, a major enclave of Asian immigrants. Inside, [sport teams] Astros and Texans memorabilia hangs on the walls, and aromas of pecan and oak smoke permeate the air. Behind the counter, classic brisket burnt ends are stuffed into steam buns topped with pickled jicama, cucumbers, hoisin-barbecue sauce, and green onions, or tossed with flat noodles and gai lan, or Chinese broccoli."
(i) Blood Bros. BBQ was established permanently in 2018 (after being a pop-up) by three (Terry Wing and his younger brother Robin, plus Vietnamese pitmaster Quy Hoang: Hoang is 黄, as opposed to Huang in Mandarin.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blood_Bros._BBQ
The three men had sworn eternal fealty, according to Smithsonian magazine. See also blood brother
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blood_brother

Still, the restaurant name was inspired by Blood Brothers (musical)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blood_Brothers_(musical)
(an English musical that "debuted in Liverpool" in 1983)
(ii) Corrinn McCauley, Types of BBQ. WebrestaurantStore.com, undated (blog)
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/blog/3728/types-of-bbq.html
("there are four prominent BBQ regions: Kansas City, Carolina, Memphis, and Texas. * * * burnt ends are the hallmark of Kansas City style BBQ . * * * What Are Burnt Ends? Fatty and flavorful, burnt ends are pieces of meat cut from the point half (superficial pectoral) of a smoked brisket. Their texture softens when they're cooked into rich, Kansas City style baked beans.")
(A) burnt ends
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burnt_ends
(Compared to flat cut: "This longer cooking [of point cut] gave rise to the name 'burnt ends.' * * * Kansas City native Calvin Trillin is often credited with popularizing burnt ends. In a 1972 article he wrote for Playboy")
• baked beans
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baked_beans
("Today, baked beans are served throughout the United States alongside barbecue foods and at picnics")
(B) brisket
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisket
("The brisket muscles include the superficial and deep pectorals. As cattle do not have collar bones, these muscles support about 60% of the body weight of standing or moving cattle. This requires a significant amount of connective tissue, so the resulting meat must be cooked correctly to tenderise it. * * * The brisket muscles are sometimes separated for retail cutting: the lean 'first cut' or 'flat cut' is the deep pectoral, while the fattier 'second cut,' 'point,' 'fat end,' or 'triangular cut' is the superficial pectoral")

Brisket: Flat Cut vs Point Cut. Cuisine at Home (magazine), undated (blog)
https://www.cuisineathome.com/tips/brisket-flat-cut-vs-point-cut/
("The point cut [pectoralis major; called point because its insertion to the shoulder is pointed: consult anatomy] is thicker, smaller, and marbled with more fat and connective tissue than the flat cut. There’s a lot more flavor from the extra fat, but not as much meat, which is why it usually gets ground into hamburger meat or shredded for sandwiches")

Point cut is also called point half of brisket -- flat cut, also known as flat half.
• The superficial and deep pectorals in cattle is called, in human anatomy, pectoralis major and minor, respectively. (Pectoralis is Latin, and pectoral, English. Both words can be either an adjective or a noun in its own language. Check Wiktionary.)
• Wikipedia: "cattle do not have collar bones." What does it try to say?
(iii)
(A) clavicle
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clavicle
("collarbone * * * Located directly above the first rib, it [clavicle, that connects sternum and scapula] acts as a strut to keep the scapula in place so that the arm can hang freely. * * * In many mammals, the clavicles are also reduced, or even absent, to allow the scapula greater freedom of motion, which may be useful in fast-running animals")
• strut (n): "a rod or bar forming part of a framework and designed to resist compression"
Oxford Languages, undated (which is not found in a website, but can be displayed if one googles (strut definition) as a collaboration between Google and Oxford dictionaries. Indeed, with the same Google search, one can see a few examples: a rod with spring.
• strut
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strut
(caption of top photo: "Struts on the undercarriage [four rods connecting the two front wheels], wings [a vertical rod connecting the two left wings] and tailplane [one rod connecting tailplane to rear fuselage] of an Antonov An-2 biplane")
(B) Clavicles are absent in cattle, sheep, pigs, horses (etc), because these animals only need their forelimbs to run, and run fast. The forelimb movement in these animals are strictly moving forward (and then back, in preparation for the next step). Unlike humans, the limbs in these animals need not, and do not have a 360-degree movement as well as the stretching out of the SHOULDER joint; which is what clavicles are for.

Canines and felines have rudimentary clavicles (dog: 1 cm; cats: 2-5 cm) that are not connected with other bones but buried in muscles.
(C) Clavicle. Encyclopaedia Britannica, undated
https://www.britannica.com/science/clavicle
("The clavicle is present in mammals with prehensile forelimbs and in bats, and it is absent in sea mammals and those adapted for running. The wishbone, or furcula, of birds is composed of the two fused clavicles")
(D) Stephen J O'Brien, James E Voos, Andrew S Neviaser, Mark C Drakos, Developmental Anatomy of the Shoulder and Anatomy of the Glenohumeral Joint. In Rockwood and Matsen's The Shoulder. Elsevier, 2009
("Mammals adapted for running have lost their clavicle to further mobilize the scapula, and the scapula is relatively narrow. Mammals adapted for swimming also have lost the clavicle, although the scapula is wider and permits more varied function")
• glenohumeral joint = shoulder joint
• Sheep Discovery - Skeletal - Summary. Department of Animal and Food Sciences, University of Kentucky, undated.
https://afs.ca.uky.edu/livestock/sheep/skeletal/summary
, where you can see the NARROW scapula connecting with humerus via shoulder joint, and with no bone on the other end (of the scapula).
• whale
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whale
(sketch caption: "Skeleton of a bowhead whale; notice the vestigial pelvis. Richard Lydekker, 1894")
Note the "wider" scapula.
• in cat: "27.5 Scapular avulsion[:] The scapula is connected to the body wall by both deep and superficial muscles."  PM Montavon, K Voss and SJ Langley-Hobbs, in Feline Orthopedic Surgery and Musculoskeletal Disease , 2009
• Clavicle. In Robert Lewis Maynard and Noel Downes, Anatomy and Histology of the Laboratory Rat in Toxicology and Biomedical Research. Academic Press, 2019
https://www.sciencedirect.com/to ... y-medicine/clavicle
("In many mammals, particularly those that use their forelimbs only for running, and not for manipulation of objects, the clavicle is reduced or lost. In these species, the forelimb is attached to the rest of the body only by muscles. In man the ossification of the clavicle is unusual"_
• Alicia Pownall & Debra P Moore, Clavicle. In Jennifer Vonk and Todd K Shackelford (eds), Encyclopedia of Animal Cognition and Behavior. Springer, Cham (2022) ("Springer, Cham" is a shorthand for "Springer International Publishing AG - Cham, Switzerland").
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-55065-7_1435

"Introduction[:] The term 'clavicle' originates from the Latin word noun feminine] clavicular [sic, should be clavicula, which, in turn, is diminutive of noun feminine clavis key], meaning little key. This describes the function of this bone in that is [sic; should be it] rotates along its axis similar to a key when the shoulder is abducted (rotated away from the body). When present, this bone serves as a strut to support the shoulder. * * *

"Function. The clavicle allows rigid support of the shoulder blade, leading to the ability for the limb to be freely suspended. This gives the arm maximum range of motion and flexibility.
• Scapulohumeral Rhythm Shoulder Abduction with Muscular Analysis on Make a GIF. YouTube.com, uploaded anonymously, 2012
https://makeagif.com/gif/scapulo ... lar-analysis-m15io0
(iv) For jicama, see Pachyrhizus erosus.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pachyrhizus_erosus


(c) "Don Nguyen, the founder of Khói, a recurring Houston pop-up that launched in 2017. * * * At Khói, which translates to 'smoke,' Nguyen celebrates his heritage with takes on Central Vietnamese noodle soups like mì Quảng, or turmeric noodles * * * The broth for the flagship beef phở, meanwhile, is reimagined through chicken broth infused with smoked beef ribs—then crowned with brisket smoked in Phú Quốc island pepper.   Blood Bros. BBQ[:] While the menu skews more classic Texan, the owners also nod to their Vietnamese and Chinese roots with dishes like bánh mì sandwiches stuffed with either smoked turkey or char siu pork loin. * * * Hoang says, citing his adaptation of thịt nướng, or marinated pork grilled over coals as an example."
(i) mì Quảng
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mì_Quảng
("literally 'Quảng noodles,' is a Vietnamese noodle dish that originated in Quảng Nam Province" 广南省)
(ii) Phú Quốc
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phú_Quốc
("is the largest island in Vietnam. * * * Located in the Gulf of Thailand [see map], the island city of Phú Quốc includes the island proper and 21 smaller islets. * * * Phú Quốc is famous for its two traditional products: fish sauce and black pepper")
, which Wiktionary says is 富國.
(iii) bánh mì
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bánh_mì
, where bánh is 餅 and mì, the same as mì in mì Quảng. Per Wiktionary.
(iv)
(A) bún thịt nướng
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bún_thịt_nướng
(photo)
(B) bún thịt nướng (etymology: "bún noodles +‎ thịt meat +‎ nướng to grill")
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/b ... _n%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bng

(d) Vietnamese grammar, specifically word order of noun modifiers
(i) "The modifier can be a noun, adjective, or verb.": from the Web.

So thịt nướng is grilled meat, whereas nướng thịt means to grill meat. This is because Vietnamese language subscribes to the syntax the world over (subject + verb + object), the only exceptions being Korean and Japanese (subject + object + verb).
(ii) No question that a quantifier (two, three) goes before a noun.
(iii) However, in Note (e)(v)(A) below, why is the order for "thịt bò nướng lá lốt," which literally means meat + beef or cattle + grill + leaf + (wild betel).

Vietnamese language is a hybrid of two systems: indigenous Vietnamese (non-Sino-Vietnamese), and Chinese (written in its alphabet; Sino-Vietnamese). The former has noun modifier (except quantifier) after a noun, and the former, before a noun.
(iv) What Is the Correct Vietnamese Word Order? Reddit, 2023.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vietnam ... tnamese_word_order/

Q (by VaticanSectionXIV): "The official name of Vietnam is Cộng hòa [共和] Xã hội [社會] chủ nghĩa [主義] Việt Nam, with Cộng hòa at the front. Quốc-gia Việt-Nam also had Quốc-gia [國家] at the front. However, Việt Nam Dân chủ [民主] Cộng hòa has Cộng hòa at the end, similar to Việt Nam Cộng hòa. What explains this inconsistency? AFAIK pAs far as I know], in Vietnamese the noun is at the front, before the qualifier [or modifier]. So the term Thiên tử [天子] (son of heaven, a title adopted by Vietnamese monarchs from China) should instead be Tử thiên to be grammatically correct, right?"


A1 (by Style-Upstairs): "For formal terms (your example) and words loaned from Chinese (more specifically sino-viet words/từ [字] hán [漢] việt [together hán việt = Sino-Vietnamese] as opposed to colloquial readings of Chinese characters, but that’s something else that I can get into detail if you’d like me to), they generally keep the Chinese word order, which is different from Viet bc [because] they’re from different language families. That’s why Châu Á was once Á Châu (now dated), bc the Chinese term is 亚洲 (Á, then Châu) [Châu ps same as Cantonse pronunciation].

It did switch to the native Viet word order though, Châu Á, through Vietnamization which happened after 1975 (80s or 90s I think?).

Here’s another way to describe it: the entire phrase is loaned from Chinese. E.G. 亚洲 was loaned, not 亚 and 洲 separately.

Also the reason for formal terms is because formal terms, with exceptions (none i can think of atm [at this moment]) are generally sino-Viet—like how formal english terms (e.g. court speech [at least in judicial court in England and US; I know nothing about king's court]) use latin; you’d prefer 'amicable' (latin) instead of 'friendly' (english) in an essay:

Cộng hoà Xã hội chủ nghĩa việt nam is 共和 (cộng hoà) + 社會主義 (xã hội chủ nghĩa) + 越南 (việt nam)

Edit: only noticed that one example, I'll explain the others:

thiên tử is from Chinese's 天子; both 'thiên' and 'tử' are understood as Chinese terms and more formal counterparts to the native Vietnamese 'trời' and 'con.' They are individually understood, just as more formal and non-native terms, so they follow a different word order which everyone instinctively knows. The reason why Chinese terms are more formal is for a bunch of historical reasons which I can get into if you'd like. Using the native viet terms to make 'con trời' kind of sounds silly. To refer to the sky itself, you'd almost never use 'thiên' and only use 'trời;' thiên is only found in compounds.

Using Latin as an analogy again: you know what 'ad hoc' means, but a layman likely doesn’t know what 'ad' (for) or 'hoc' (this) on their own mean. And if you use 'ad' to mean 'for,' then no one's gonna understand you. You understand the phrase as being foreign and formal and it sounds as such. And 'ad hoc' serves as an adjective in English, but 'for this' doesn't, so it follows different grammatical rules as well. Same relationship with Vietnamese and sino-vietnamese words.

There's also latin words that sound English and replaced the native English word, like 'ambigious' [sic; should be ambiguous [from Latin adjective masculine ambiguus, from verb ambigere to go about, from prefix amb- + agere to be in motion] is from latin but you don't know right away it's latin and it follows the same grammar rules as any other english words. Same is with Vietnamese word’s like 'đường' [塘] to mean road; it's replaced the native viet word 'sá' [Wiktionary says 'obsolete'] and no one will understand you if you say 'sá' to mean road. Similarly, the native english word for 'egg' is 'ey,' while 'egg' comes from old norse [Old Norse], but no one understands 'ey' anymore.

TL;DR [too long; didn't read] Vietnamese's syntax as inconsistent as English’s for the same reasons. You'll get used to it.

sorry if i dont make sense; currently lightheaded. might go back later and edit to be more concise."


A2 (by leanbird): "This inconsistency is because for Sino-Viet compound nouns (từ ghép [(v) to join; từ ghép together to mean compound word] Hán Việt), you have 2 options:

   • The native order: Thing first, description second
   • The Classical Chinese order: The other way around, like English

Nowadays the native order prevails, while the Chinese one is seen as old-fashioned.

But once upon a time, the Chinese order was used for formal titles - actually not that long ago, as you can see it in the Vietnam War era.

However, this only applies to compound nouns like CHXHCN [Cộng hòa Xã hội chủ nghĩa Việt Nam] because they can be broken down into smaller pieces: CH + XH + CN.

Your second example, thiên tử, is NOT a compound noun, because we can't break it down any further. It is treated as one unit: thiên tử.

Yes, you still write the 2 syllables separately, but mentally speaking, you don't break the word into thiên + tử. Therefore it keeps its internal Classical Chinese logic. It ain't really Vietnamese, so we don't truly understand it and thus don't tamper with it.

If you want to put thiên tử into the native order, you must translate its components into native Vietnamese equivalents first:

   • thiên = trời ['sky': Wiktionary]
   • tử = con ['child (daughter or son)': Wiktionary]
   • thiên tử = con trời

There. And yes, sometimes that translation job (calquing [直译 in Chinese]) is done in literature and poetry."


(e) "Sean Wen and Andrew Ho, the Houston-born co-owners of Pinch Boil House and Curry Boys BBQ in San Antonio, have followed the evolution of Viet-Texan closely. After opening Pinch, a Viet-Cajun boil spot, in 2017, they followed up with Curry Boys BBQ * * * Nguyen, who works as a sustainable energy trader by day * * * Taking cues from Carolina-style barbecue, Khói's version inverts bò lá lốt, a lemongrass beef sausage wrapped and grilled in fragrant betel leaf [my reading is this description is Khói's version]. The dish is notably a part of Vietnam's traditional feast of beef seven ways, which is best known in Houston at the old-school Asiatown mainstay Saigon Pagolac [name of a Vietnamese restaurant]."
(i) About. Pinch Boil House, undated
https://pinchboilhouse.com/about-1
(Our Story & Mission[:] Pinch started from pop-up crawfish boils in San Antonio")
(ii) "a sustainable energy trader"

Ritu Suri, Renewable Energy Trading 101: Definition, Market Overview, Trends, Benefits and Challenges. Luxoft, Mar 5, 2024
https://www.luxoft.com/blog/late ... ties-and-challenges
("Renewable energy trading * * * is the trade of electricity produced using renewable means and other renewable energy commodities like biofuel. Renewable energy includes solar, hydro-, wind and geothermal power, as well as bioenergy (biofuels) and marine energy")
(iii) "Taking cues from Carolina-style barbecue

Corrinn McCauley, Types of BBQ. WebrestaurantStore.com, undated (blog)
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/blog/3728/types-of-bbq.html
("Carolina style centers on slow-roasted whole hog barbeque and is one of America’s oldest methods of cooking meat. Whole hog BBQ is the artful process of cooking an entire hog for 12 to 24 hours")
(iv) English dictionary:
* invert (vt): "1a: to reverse in position, order, or relationship
* * *
2a:to turn inside out or upside down"
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/invert
(v)
(A) For bò lá lốt, see bò nướng lá lốt
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bò_nướng_lá_lốt
(also thịt bò nướng lá lốt)
(B) Vietnamese-English dictionary:
* lá lốt (n; from noun leaf + noun lốt Piper lolot)
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/lá_lốt
   ^ For Piper lolot, see Piper sarmentosum
   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piper_sarmentosum
* bò (n): cattle
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bò
   ^ bò viên (noun; from verb viên to make it round): beef meatball
   https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bò_viên
(C) Bò Cuốn Lá Lốt | Beef Wrap Piper Lolot Leaves | Betel Leaves Recipe. Chef Q's Travel Recipe, Sept 11, 2021
https://chefqstravelrecipe.com/2021/09/11/bo-cuon-la-lot/
("Piper Lolot leaves and betel leaves. They are similar in shape and color. But they definitely taste different. One the latter; ie, betel] is a vine and another [the former] is a bush[, though both species belong to the same genus, Piper; Latin noun neuter piper pepper]. * * * Some Vietnamese restaurant in the states serve this dish, but it is rarely that they use La Lot. They uses grape leaves as a substitute. The Piper Lolot Leaves have a very distinct aroma and flavor that is very addicting. Betel Leaves on the other hand is a source chewing tobacco [in Vietnam. ny wrappog betel leaf around tobacco] * * * [cooking direction:] Wrap the beef in the leaves. Pan fry 1 pc to taste [that is why the leaf looks dark in the Web photos]. Adjust [ingredient] mixture to your taste")

The cuốn is Vietnamese verb meaning to roll (wrap).
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cu%E1%BB%91n
(vi) "Vietnam's traditional feast of beef seven ways"
(A) bò 7 món
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bò_7_món
(bò bảy món)
(B) Vietnamese-English dictionary:
* bảy (numeral): "seven"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bảy
* món (n): "dish (food item)"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/món


(f) "At the Asian smokehouse Loro restaurant did not explain name], Vietnamese iced coffee is blended into a frappé. At Japanese newcomer Money Cat, fatty bluefin tuna is served with an icy granita inspired by canh chua—a homestyle Vietnamese tamarind-pineapple sour soup. 'Vietnamese food has become a major influence in Texas,' says Sherman Yeung, executive chef-owner of Money Cat. * * * At Xin Chào, the joint venture between Vietnamese American chefs Tony J Nguyen (unrelated to Don) and MasterChef alum Christine Ha [there is a en.wikipedia.org page for her; the Vietnamese surname Hà is Sino-Vietnamese 何], freewheeling mash-ups range from buttermilk fried chicken battered with pandan rice flakes to Nguyen's favorite childhood dish, chow fun noodles with post-oak-smoked brisket. 'Xin Chào shows how versatile Vietnamese cuisine can be,' Nguyen says. * * * 'There's dudes with cowboy hats, but there's also metalheads [fans or performers of heavy metal]. There's African Americans, Latinos, Asians, and the LGBTQIA+ community.' * * * Brisket & Rice serves its namesake dish—smoked brisket over white rice—along with baked potato salads and nui xào bò, or Vietnamese macaroni noodles with beef."
(i) frappé coffee
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frappé_coffee
(ii)
(A) granita
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granita
("is related to sorbet and Italian ice; however, throughout Sicily its consistency [read: granularity; from ice crystals] varies")
(B) The etymology of granita, according to marriam-webster.com, is from granito, the (masculine) past participle of Italian verb granire to granulate.
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/granita
(iii)
(A) canh chua
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canh_chua
("The sour taste of the soup comes from tamarind" (fruits, inside a pod) mostly, not pineapple)
(B) Vietnamese-English dictionary:
* canh 羹 (n): "broth"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/canh
* chua (adj): "sour"
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/chua
(iv) Money Cat is the only name (no Japanese or any other language) in the restaurant, whose logo is maneki-neko  招き猫.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maneki-neko
(v) English dictionary:
* mash-up (n): "something created by combining elements from two or more sources: such as
a : a piece of music created by digitally overlaying an instrumental track with a vocal track from a different recording" (emphases added)
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/mash-up
(vi)
(A) The pandan rice flakes is xôi lá dứa. See xôi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xôi
("made from glutinous rice and other ingredients"/ section 1 Varieties, section 1.2 Sweet: "xôi lá dứa – made with pandan leaf extract for the green color and a distinctive pandan flavor")

According to merriam-webster.com, the first syllable is pronounced the same as that in Peter Pan, and the vowel in the second may be pronounced the same as the first syllable or ə.
(B) This is what the snack looks like: Huy Vu, Pandan Sticky Rice Recipe (Xôi Lá Dứa). Hungry Huy, updated on Jan 13, 2021
https://www.hungryhuy.com/pandan-sticky-rice-recipe/
("The star here is the amazingly aromatic pandan leaves, highlighted by sweet coconut, brought together by warm sticky rice")
(vii) "chow fun noodles with post-oak-smoked brisket"

For chow fun, see shahe fen  沙河粉
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shahe_fen
(粿條 in Minnan language; "Shahe fen is often stir-fried with meat and/or vegetables in a dish called 炒粉," whose romanization is chow fun in Cantonese)
(viii)
(A) Quercus stellata
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quercus_stellata
(post oak)
(B) "The limbs are sturdy and durable and were favored by pioneers for fence posts, hence the name." from the Web.
(C) Why Post Oak Is Popular Among Grill Masters. ButlerWood (a business), Feb 3, 2023
https://www.butlerwood.com/blogs ... among-grill-masters
("When you use post oak in your pit or offset smoker, it provides a very high heat that is consistent throughout the cooking process. It also adds a clean, smokey flavor to your meats that is stronger than apple wood yet lighter than hickory. This wood species needs to be green and living when it’s cut down to maintain the natural moisture content. However, it also needs to be aged to burn correctly")
(ix) Xin Chào restaurant in Houston closed on June 8, 2024. The xin chào is a greeting.
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/xin_chào
(v) LGBTQIA+ 101.  Princeton Gender + Sexuality Resource Center, undated
https://www.gsrc.princeton.edu/lgbtqia-101
("The acronym stands for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer, questioning, intersex, asexual, and the + holds space for the expanding and new understanding of different parts of the very diverse gender and sexual identities")
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沙发
 楼主| 发表于 8-31-2024 12:12:56 | 只看该作者
--------------text
At 11 a.m. on any given weekend, Houstonians descend upon Blood Bros. BBQ in an unassuming strip mall in the Southwest suburb of Bellaire, a major enclave of Asian immigrants. Inside, Astros and Texans memorabilia hangs on the walls, and aromas of pecan and oak smoke permeate the air. Behind the counter, classic brisket burnt ends are stuffed into steam buns topped with pickled jicama, cucumbers, hoisin-barbecue sauce, and green onions, or tossed with flat noodles and gai lan, or Chinese broccoli.

“Barbecue is safe ground,” says Don Nguyen, the founder of Khói, a recurring Houston pop-up that launched in 2017. “It's iconic for all Texans, and we're as Texan as anyone else.” Born in Vietnam, Nguyen moved to Space City when he was five. At Khói, which translates to “smoke,” Nguyen celebrates his heritage with takes on Central Vietnamese noodle soups like mì Quảng, or turmeric noodles, using meat from a Carolina-style whole hog roast. The broth for the flagship beef phở, meanwhile, is reimagined through chicken broth infused with smoked beef ribs—then crowned with brisket smoked in Phú Quốc island pepper.

Blood Bros. BBQ, which also started as a pop-up before becoming a brick-and-mortar in 2018, is the brainchild of pitmaster Quy Hoang and his partners Robin and Terry Wong. While the menu skews more classic Texan, the owners also nod to their Vietnamese and Chinese roots with dishes like bánh mì sandwiches stuffed with either smoked turkey or char siu pork loin.

“Vietnamese food and Texas BBQ are both comfort foods—this is why I think the flavors and meats work harmoniously,” Hoang says, citing his adaptation of thịt nướng, or marinated pork grilled over coals as an example. “This was a dish that I grew up eating a lot with my family. We decided to use the same marinade, but with pork belly, cooked low and slow.”

Sean Wen and Andrew Ho, the Houston-born co-owners of Pinch Boil House and Curry Boys BBQ in San Antonio, have followed the evolution of Viet-Texan closely. After opening Pinch, a Viet-Cajun boil spot, in 2017, they followed up with Curry Boys BBQ, an Asian barbecue concept. Meats sourced from their friend, pitmaster Andrew Samia of South BBQ, are paired with a selection of Southeast Asian curries, plus rice and noodles.

“We’re so lucky to have barbecue as a vehicle because people are immediately obsessed,” Wen says. “We still have people come in and ask us what curry is, or why it goes with barbecue, but it gives us a chance to educate and share in small ways.”

While these only-in-Texas creations hold their own as part of the state’s culinary canon, they’re also important avenues for cultural storytelling. Nguyen, who works as a sustainable energy trader by day, remembers working on a project documenting his mother’s family recipes in 2017, around the time he happened to purchase a smoker. A week later, Hurricane Harvey crippled the city and Nguyen found himself stuck at home.

“I had all this time to sit around and be introspective about our place as Vietnamese people in Texas—and it just morphed into a form of expression,” he recalls of his early iterations.

Nguyen points to sausage as a perfect canvas, due to the fact that nearly every culture has a comparable technique of meat preservation. Taking cues from Carolina-style barbecue, Khói’s version inverts bò lá lốt, a lemongrass beef sausage wrapped and grilled in fragrant betel leaf. The dish is notably a part of Vietnam’s traditional feast of beef seven ways, which is best known in Houston at the old-school Asiatown mainstay Saigon Pagolac.

“Growing up, we used to go to Pagolac all the time, and so I thought, ‘Let’s just use the same flavors and make a western-style beef sausage,” he says.

Vietnamese influence is spreading beyond barbecue, too. At fried-chicken-and-seafood restaurant Gatlin's Fins & Feathers, the house hot chicken sandwich comes with a Viet-Cajun sauce. At the Asian smokehouse Loro, Vietnamese iced coffee is blended into a frappé. At Japanese newcomer Money Cat, fatty bluefin tuna is served with an icy granita inspired by canh chua—a homestyle Vietnamese tamarind-pineapple sour soup. “Vietnamese food has become a major influence in Texas,” says Sherman Yeung, executive chef-owner of Money Cat. “Chefs in Houston especially recognize how well Vietnamese ingredients work with various cuisines.” At Xin Chào, the joint venture between Vietnamese American chefs Tony J. Nguyen (unrelated to Don) and MasterChef alum Christine Ha, freewheeling mash-ups range from buttermilk fried chicken battered with pandan rice flakes to Nguyen's favorite childhood dish, chow fun noodles with post-oak-smoked brisket. “Xin Chào shows how versatile Vietnamese cuisine can be,” Nguyen says. “Second-generation Vietnamese Americans are growing up, and it's interesting to see how we influence our home.”

Don Nguyen, who is working toward a permanent location for Khói, says he's been pleasantly surprised to see Houstonians of all types embracing his take on phở. It's a long way, he says, from the days of being that lonely Vietnamese kid with the smelly lunch.

“It's so indicative of Houston, so indicative of Texas,” he says of Khói. “There's dudes with cowboy hats, but there's also metalheads. There's African Americans, Latinos, Asians, and the LGBTQIA+ community. It's a really cool environment where everybody can come and feel safe. America is so polarized, but at least we can find some common ground.”

Operating out of a Phillips 66 gas station in Northwest Houston, Brisket & Rice serves its namesake dish—smoked brisket over white rice—along with baked potato salads and nui xào bò, or Vietnamese macaroni noodles with beef.

Xin Chào

Set in the Sawyer Heights area, Xin Chào (which translates to “hello”) brings together the talents of chefs Tony Nguyen and Christine Ha. The menu spotlights a second-generation approach to both Vietnamese and Texan cuisine, with dishes like Viet-Cajun oysters, smoked duck salad, and buttermilk fried chicken coated in pandan rice flakes.

Blood Bros. BBQ

After years as a beloved pop-up, Blood Bros. opened in a brick-and-mortar space on Bellaire Boulevard—a main thoroughfare that also runs through Houston’s Asiatown neighborhood. On the menu, find traditional Texas ’cue presented in Vietnamese staples, like a smoked turkey banh mi sandwich and chow fun rice noodles with gai lan, or Chinese broccoli, and brisket.

Khói

A longstanding pop-up with an eye on a permanent location, Khói applies Texas smoke and beef to lighter, more aromatic Vietnamese dishes such as phở and other noodle soups. Owner Don Nguyen frequently dabbles outside of Texan barbecue traditions, looking to the Carolinas for whole hog cooking and sausage making—much of it with a Southeast Asian bent. Dishes and monthly dates change regularly, so check Instagram for the latest news.

Dinette

A casual, modern Vietnamese restaurant, Dinette offers several Viet-Texan-leaning crowd pleasers like pandan-fried okra and honey-and-fish sauce glazed wings. The Heights kitchen also takes on Viet-Tex-Mex with brisket phở nachos and a reimagining of the Vietnamese bánh xèo turmeric crepe as a taco.

Saigon Hustle

There’s no real fusion here: it’s straightforward and traditional. But what is undeniably Texan is the fast casual format and the drive-through (Houston is one of America’s most car-dependent cities). Prepared Chipotle-style in under three minutes, food comes with a choice of char-grilled meat served in a rice paper wrap, over rice, or over noodles with herbs and sauces.
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