3-Layered Meat: Korean Food

choi

Ligaya Mishan, On a Hot Iron, Sizzling Magic; Pork is the star at a Korean barbecue spot in Queens. New York Times, Sept 29, 2016 (in his column "Hungry City" in the weekly Food section).
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/2 ... lushing-queens.html

Note:
(a) Out of the slide show of 11 photos, photo No 7 appears in print.

(b) "The crowd is of one mind at Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi: From every table rises a [convex] gleaming black cast-iron dome with a tapered handle, like the lid of a giant pot, and on every dome lie stripes of pork belly, more white [which is fat] than red, flesh nearly overrun by fat. * * * James Jung, a native of Chuncheon in the mountains east of Seoul, South Korea, and his wife, Whajung Lee, who grew up in Seoul, opened Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi in 2002."
(i) Chuncheon  春川(市)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chuncheon
(capital of Gangwon-do 江原道)
(ii) The Korean surname Jung most likely is 鄭, which also is transliterated as Jeong.
(iii) restaurant name: Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi
(A) For the meaning of Tong, see (iv). It takes me a long time to figure it out.
(B) Go to photo 2 of the NYT slide show, you will see the hangul (Korean alphabet) for "Sam Gyup" is exactly the same as those of the first two syllables of "samgyupsal" (see (c) below).
(C) For the same Korean restaurant, some in the Web spell the last two syllables as "goo ee." The same; just different transliterations. See, eg, Lee (Korean surname)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lee_(Korean_surname)
(李 can be transliterated as Rhee or Yi)

gui (food)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gui_(food)(hanja: none)
(iv) Photo 2 indicates Tong is represented by 통.
(A) The hanja for 통 is just seven: 通統痛桶慟洞筒.
인명용 한자사전
http://hanja.nameunse.com/?c=12&s=%ED%86%B5#
(B) dleehal, Tong Sam Gyup Goo Ee Korean Restaurant. Maangchi.com, June 7, 2010
www.maangchi.com/talk/topic/tong ... e-korean-restaurant
("I came across this restaurant on the net only. I will eat their very soon. I have been told by my Korean friend the name means 'Mucho SAM GYUP SAL' he likes to mix Spanish & English… From reading it’s a small but incredible place that is all about the pork belly (bacon)  I live in New Jersey so it few hours to get there.  If anyone has been to this place or wants to go let me know I welcome your opinions and your company.  David")
(C) tera-se7en, Learn Korean / Korece Öğrenelim. Korea & Turkey Friendship Forum, undated
www.korea-fans.com/forum/konu-le ... renelim.html?page=2
("통 (caliber; generosity; boldness); 통이 크다  generous; broad-minded; bold; daring")

In Korean language, the "tong" 통 definitely is neither pig nor pork (as one may guess from Chinese pronunciation IN JAPAN for 豚.

choi

(c) "In Korean, pork belly is called samgyupsal, or three-layer flesh"

samgyupsal
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samgyeopsal
(section 1 Name: One can also find ogyeopsal (Korean: 오겹살), with o meaning "five" [compare 五花肉 in Chinese language])

There is no corresponding hanja [Korean writing: 漢字] for gyeop 겹 or sal.

(d) "Pork belly — Yorkshire pork or lusher, slightly more expensive Kurobuta — is marinated for three days in doenjang, fermented soybean paste, and other ingredients that Mr Jung hesitated to reveal."
(i)
(A) Berkshire pig
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berkshire_pig

has white4 skin in England and Japan but white skin in US. See next.
(B) Large White pig
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Large_White_pig
("originating in Yorkshire, hence also known as the Yorkshire pig")
(ii) Japanese-English dictionary:
* kurobuta 黒豚 【くろぶた】 (n): "(See バークシャー [katakana for 'Berkshire') Berkshire pig"  (The "ton" and "futa" (softened to "buta" when not placed at the beginning of a word) are Chinese and Japanese pronunciations, respectively, of kanji 豚.)
(iii) doenjang  된醬
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doenjang)
(literally means "thick sauce" in Korean)

(e) "The convex shape of the sottukung [no hanja], or grill plate, on each table is meant to mimic the lid of a gammasot [no hanja], or caldron, which in traditional Korean kitchens was installed above a wood-burning stove that doubled as a fireplace. Its curves allow for a steady blossoming of heat and, most crucially, for drippings to run down into the wreath of bean sprouts, kimchi and garlic cloves snapping on the hot iron below."

Regarding the clause "into the wreath of bean sprouts, kimchi and garlic cloves snapping on the hot iron below."  This can be seen in photos 3, 7 and 8 of the slide show.

choi

(f) "There are romaine leaves for folding around the pork, along with a swab of ssam jang, a meld of doenjang and gochujang (fermented chile paste), and strands of pickled daikon or scallion kimchi."
(i) ssamjang  쌈醬
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ssamjang
(ii) gochujang  苦椒醬
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gochujang
(fermented Korean condiment made from red chili, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans, and salt)
(iii) daikon  大根
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daikon

is what Japanese, not Koreans, call 萝卜 among Chinese. see section 1 Name of this Wiki page.

(g) "Pork skin arrived not fried, like chicharrones, but in chewy tabs whose frank scent and flavor evoked intestines. * * * Other barbecue spots may have more and better banchan (side dishes) and less utilitarian décor. But Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi has perhaps the best finish to a meal: first, a bowl made of ice, filled with naengmyun, buckwheat noodles in a bracing broth of beef bones, Korean pear, apple and radish that wipes the palate of all memory of what came before.  Then comes the glory of bibimbap, rice inflamed with gochujang"
(i) For chicharrone, see duros (food)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duros_(food)
(also known as, among others, chicharrones; a popular Mexican snack food made of puffed wheat)
(ii) banchan  飯饌
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banchan
(iii) naengmyeon
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naengmyeon
(meaning "cold noodles")

No hanja, but my guess is 冷面 originally.
(iv) bibimbap
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibimbap
("literally means 'mixed rice.' Bibimbap is served as a bowl of warm white rice topped with" various things)