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Book Review on 'The Dim Sum Field Guide'

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发表于 11-26-2016 15:36:56 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 choi 于 11-28-2016 17:13 编辑

Adrian Ho, A Delicious Diaspora; A taxonomy of dumplings, buns, meats, sweets and other specialties of Chinese teahouse. Wall Street Journal, Nov 26, 2016.
http://www.wsj.com/articles/dim- ... diaspora-1480104768
(book review on Carolyn Phillips, The Dim Sum Field Guide  Berkeley, Calif: Ten Speed Press, 2016)

Note:
(a) Adrian
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adrian
(b) "the avian metaphor of Carolyn Phillips's 'The Dim Sum Field Guide' * * * She [Carolyn Phillips] developed her love for these 'small packets of unique flavors' during eight years living in Taiwan, itself a major destination for Chinese fleeing the 1949 revolution. Back in California, home to America’s oldest Chinatown, she continued to explore dim sum * * * har gow 虾饺 * * * Siu mai 烧卖 * * * Char siu buns 叉烧包 [Cantonese pronunciations]"

(c) "For the adventurous, Ms Phillips recommends black bean chicken feet 豆瓣凤爪, which are 'absolutely delicious thanks to the flavorful sauce . . . rich with garlic, fermented black beans, and chiles' that 'seeps into every cranny.' She describes blanched goose intestines 白灼鹅肠 as 'fluttery pieces of edible silk' and praises braised duck chins 酱煨鸭下巴 for their 'layers of texture and flavor.' These are some of the treasured favorites of the dim sum connoisseur. Rendered into English, they might seem a tough sell."
(i) blanch (vt): "to take the color out of: as
a :  to scald or parboil in water or steam in order to remove the skin from, whiten, or stop enzymatic action in (as food for freezing)"
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/blanch
(ii) blanch (vt): "prepare (vegetables) for freezing or further cooking by immersing briefly in boiling water <blanch corn in boiling water for one minute>"
https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/blanch
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