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Corned Beef

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发表于 3-8-2017 16:41:34 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 choi 于 3-9-2017 10:53 编辑

Sam Sifton, Not the Corned Beef of Yore; Banish bad memories of Irish pub fare for meat that is ruddy pink, salty and sweet. New York Times, Mar 8, 2017.
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/03/06/dining/corned-beef-recipe.html

Quote:

(a) "CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE is [not 'are,' because the two pair together as an item] the scent of St Patrick's Day.

(b) "Corned beef takes its name from the salt that was originally used to brine it, the crystals so large they resembled kernels of corn. Curing and packing plants in Ireland used that salt in the 19th century to cure slabs of beef that went into barrels, later cans, and onto ships to feed, among others, British colonists, troops, slaves and laborers across the globe. Eventually someone in Boston or the Bahamas fished out a cut of beef neck or a brisket and boiled it into submission with a head of cabbage, and that was dinner.

(c) "it does require, Mr Ruhlman suggested, that you go out of your way to find the curing salt that turns the meat pink: sodium nitrite. The substance was used originally to forestall the growth of bacteria. That may not be an issue for the refrigerated, modern age, he said, but it still delivers big, complicated flavor to home-corned beef.

"It won't harm you, he added, for the benefit of those who fear nitrates and nitrites. * ** Mr Ruhlman's view: We already ingest a lot of nitrates in the form of vegetables that draw nitrogen from the soil. A few tablespoons of sodium nitrite added to a gallon of brine once or twice a year isn't going to cause anyone problems.

Note:
(a) There is no need to read anything other than the quotations in the NYT report, as well as any in the following.
(b) Earlier in this report, he is introduced this way: "Michael Ruhlman, a passionate advocate of the process and the author, with Brian Polcyn, of 'Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing.' "

(c)
(i) "Most recipes include nitrates or nitrites, which convert the natural myoglobin in beef to nitroso-myoglobin, giving a pink color. Nitrates and nitrites reduce the risk of dangerous botulism during curing, by inhibiting the growth of Clostridium botulinum spores. Beef cured with salt only has a gray color"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corned_beef
(ii) "Nitrosation is a process of converting organic compounds into nitroso derivatives"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrosation

(d) Whether nitrate or nitrite is a carcinogen is non-conclusive, in view of conflicting research data.
(e) Jeannine Schweihofer, Additives Have Legal Limits in Cured meat Products. Michigan State University Extension, May 16, 2014
http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/add ... cured_meat_products
("Originally, naturally occurring nitrates and nitrites in sea salt and from vegetable sources were found to change the color of meat and keep it from spoiling. * * * Ham and whole muscle products are allowed to have 200 ppm of nitrite, sausage is allowed 156 ppm, and bacon is allowed 120 ppm [according to FDA's 2003 regulation; nitrate has higher limits] )


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