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A Sushi Bar in Manhattan

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发表于 9-27-2012 15:55:09 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
Pete Wells, Hidden in a Nook, Mastery in Plain Sight; Restaurant Review: Ichimura at Brushstroke in TriBeCa. New York Times, Sept 26, 2012
www.nytimes.com/2012/09/26/dinin ... oke-in-tribeca.html
("Mr Ichimura, 58, practices the Edo-mae style of sushi that he learned decades ago in Tokyo. Developed in street stalls in the era before refrigeration, Edo-mae sushi was made with fish that had often been cured in salt or vinegar, or stored in soy sauce to keep it from spoiling")

Note:
(1)
(a) omakase  お任せ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omakase
(b) makasu 任す 【まかす】 (vt): "to entrust <彼は重大な使命を任された。 He was given an important mission.>"
Jim Breen's online Japanese dictionary
(2) For zensai, see hors d'oeuvre
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hors_d%27oeuvre
(section 2 Other languages and cultures: Zensai (前菜, lit. before dish?) is Japanese for hors d'oeuvre [with a photo])
(3) myoga  茗荷
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myoga
(4) engawa 縁側; 椽側 【えんがわ】 (n) "(1) veranda; porch; balcony; open corridor; (2) (縁側 only) bone at the base of a fin; meat at the base of a fin (esp. of a flatfish)"
(a) For definition 1, see engawa
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engawa
(b) For definition 2, see 縁側(えんがわ) 東京魚市場卸協同組合より. Mutsukari Lab 六雁研究所, undated.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/mutsukarilab/46934682.html

(5) Eiji ICHIMURA  市村 栄二.
(6)
(a) Yoshiki TSUJI  辻 芳樹
(b) tsuji 辻【つじ】(n): "intersection; crossing; crossroad"
(7) Regarding "a father skipping out on child support."
skip
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/skip?s=t
(Verb phrase: skip out on, Informal. to flee or abandon; desert <He skipped out on his wife and two children.>"

(8) For Edomae sushi, see
(a) For Edomae sushi, see
Edomaezushi  江戸前寿司; 江戸前鮨; 江戸前ずし; 江戸前鮓 【えどまえずし】(n): "{food} (See 握り寿司・にぎりずし) Edo-style sushi (usu. nigirizushi)."
(b) sushi
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sushi
(section 1 History: "The contemporary version, internationally known as "sushi", was created by HANAYA Yohei [華屋 与兵衛 or 花屋 與兵衛] (1799–1858) at the end of the Edo period in Edo. The sushi invented by Hanaya was an early form of fast food that was not fermented (therefore prepared quickly) and could be eaten with one's hands at a roadside or in a theatre. Originally, this sushi was known as Edomae zushi because it used freshly caught fish in the Edo-mae (Edo Bay or Tokyo Bay). Though the fish used in modern sushi no longer usually comes from Tokyo Bay, it is still formally known as Edomae nigirizushi")
(c) Edomae Sushi  (Edomaezushi). Sushi Encyclopedia, undated
http://www.sushiencyclopedia.com/sushi/edomae_sushi.html
("The Edomae sushi, or Edomeaezushi directly translates to 'Edo front,' and literally translates to Edo style")
(d) The noun nigiri 握り has a corresponding verb

nigiru 握る【にぎる】(v): "to clasp; to grasp; to grip; to clutch"


(9) The review says, "He [Ichimura] learned the kobu-jime technique, layering fish with kelp, which pulls water from the flesh and leaves behind a umami flavor and a green color."
(a) kobujime  昆布締め
(b) kombu  昆布 (n)
(c) shimeru 締める【しめる】(v): "to tie; to fasten"
(d) Red Snapper Sushi. Sushi Encyclomedia, undated
www.sushiencyclopedia.com/sushi_menu/red_snapper_sushi.html
("The third popular way of preparing red snapper sushi is the kobujime. This is prepared by laying the fillet on wet kelp to infuse the flavors onto the fish. While this is done, excess moisture from the red snapper is transferred to the kelp while the red snapper receives the flavors from it. The result is a concentrated flavor of red snapper enhanced with kelp. Kelp, while very bland, acts as a powerful ingredient to enhance flavors in fish, and it is one of the basic ingredients in any Japanese cuisine")

(10) The review refers to "octopus suckers dabbed with wasabi and plum paste."

cephalopod limb
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cephalopod_limb
(several sketches and photos have "suckers" in the cations)
(11) chawanmushi  茶碗蒸し
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chawanmushi
(an egg custard dish)

(12) The online photo gallery uses the following Japanese words:
(a) For "kohada (shad)," see shad
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shad
(b) For "kibinago (slender sprat)," see
silver-stripe round herring
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver-stripe_round_herring
(c) The review talks about "kochi (topped with Yuzu salt)."
(i) kochi 鯒; 牛尾魚【こち】(n): "flathead (esp. the bartailed flathead, Platycephalus indicus)"
(ii) flathead (fish)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flathead_(fish)
(d) yuzu 柚子
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
(e) saba 鯖【さば】(n): "mackerel"
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