Daigo Hand Roll Bar, in Brooklyn

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Ligaya Mishan, This Sushi Remains True to Its Humble Roots; The chef is vigilant about seafood at Daigo Hand Roll Bar in Downtown Brooklyn. New York Times, Aug 1, 2018.
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/ ... nd-roll-review.html

Note:
(a) "Sushi was not highborn. It came from the streets, from the roadside stalls of early 19th-century Edo, the fishing village that grew into neon-floodlit Tokyo.  There, an enterprising chef decided that the traditional way of preserving fish and rice — in which they were arranged in layers, pressed under weights and left to ferment — took too long * * * So he molded a handful of pickled rice and topped it with raw fish straight from the bay.  This was sushi as a snack, cheap and efficient, and no less the glorious for it. And this is sushi as you’ll find it at Daigo Hand Roll Bar in * * * Brooklyn, where almost every hand roll — made with generosity, exactitude and beautifully supple, barely anointed [ie, chosen] fish — is less than $10."
(i)
(A) less (adj; Less vs Fewer):
"of lower rank, degree, or importance  <no less a person than the president himself>
— no less[:] used to emphasize that something is regarded as impressive or surprising  <wants to be driven to the airport, in a limousine no less [as opposed to a car]>"
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/less

It is the first definition.
(B) Oxford categories it as an adverb, rather than an adjective.

less (adv): "to a smaller extent; not so much  <that this is a positive stereotype makes it no less a stereotype>"
https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/less
(ii) anointed (adj) "formal  chosen officially to do an important job  <Mr Mandela's anointed heir>"
https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/anointed

(b)
(i) Japanese-English dictionary
* daigo 醍醐 【だいご】 (n): "{Buddh} ghee (held to be the greatest of all flavours); the ultimate truth of Buddhism; nirvana"
* temaki 手巻き; 手巻 【てまき】 (n)" "(1) rolling by hand (e.g. sushi roll, cigarette); winding by hand (eg watch); (n) (2) (abbr) {food} (See 手巻き寿司) hand-rolled sushi (usu. cone-shaped)"
* dashi 《出し(P); 出汁》 【だし】 (n): "dashi (Japanese soup stock made from fish and kelp)"
(ii) ghee
(A) ghee (n): "a semifluid clarified butter made especially in India"  www.meriam-webster.com (without etymology)
(B) Oxforddictionaries.com says: "Origin  from Hindi ghī, from Sanskrit ghṛtá sprinkled."
(C) This is what ghee looks like.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghee

choi

(c) "The specialty here is temaki, seafood rolled inside rice and nori (dried seaweed) and presented uncut. Each roll is made to order, so the rice is always warm and fluffy, laced with rice vinegar, dashi kombu (kelp-and-bonito stock) * * * Here, the frail panes of seaweed are of the most prized variety, harvested from the cold waters of the Ariake Sea off the island of Kyushu in Japan, which has one of the world's greatest differentials in high and low tide — 20 feet"
(i) The temaki is defined in (b)(i). For further information, see sushi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sushi
(section 2 Types, section 2.3 Makizushi: temaki)
, where photo 1 shows you what a cone-shaped temaki looks like, though this NYT report shows that in that store, it is cylindrical.
(ii) For definition of dashi, see (b)(i).
(iii) Ariake Sea  有明海
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ariake_Sea

is on the western end of 九州.

(d) "But all this would mean nothing if the fish weren't fresh. The chef, Masanobu Ishikura [surname probably is 石倉], known as Ishi, is vigilant about seafood * * * botan ebi 牡丹海老/牡丹蝦 (sweet shrimp), whose translucent flesh crunches; * * * Saba 鯖 (mackerel), briefly cured, has a light, clean scent. Ginger is tucked in, to cut the oiliness, along with shiso 紫蘇 for a sunny finish. Hokkaido scallop, firm and plush, is all brightness from yuzu kosho, a crush of chiles, salt and yuzu peels, tang and fragrance collapsed into one. Octopus, braised until compliant, gets a hit of sanshō 山椒 pepper, cousin to Sichuan peppercorn"
(i) Japanese-English dictionary:
* yuzu koshō 柚子胡椒 【ゆずこしょう】 (n): "{food} condiment paste made from yuzu zest and chili peppers (chile)"
(ii) In Japan, ユズ  柚子
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/ユズ

is not the 柚子 pomelo in Taiwan.
(e) "In 2012, he [chef Ishikura] transformed the [old] space into the Latin-leaning Guayoyo, where he cooked alongside his wife, Carmen Isturiz, a native of Venezuela."

Spanish-English dictionary:
* guayoyo (noun masculine): "Venezuela informal  guarapo"
https://es.oxforddictionaries.co ... ish-english/guayoyo